Another Ikea product gives away its secrets. This time it is the brand new outlet switch. It is brand new and is not even to be found on the Ikea website.
Since the product is only in my possession for only a few days, I only have the PCB reversed. All different components need to be identified by color coding or by just attaching a multimeter.
When applying some heat, friction and ridiculous amounts of time you will get this:
| Identifier | Value top layer components |
|---|---|
| C1 | 4.7u, 400V |
| C2 | 4.7u, 400V |
| C5 | 680u, 10V |
| C7 | 10u, 50V |
| CX1 | [Not populated] |
| DB1 | Diode bridge |
| F1 | something wrapped in shrinktube, but I don’t think it is a fuse. |
| L1 | color coding purple, brown/red, brown/red |
| L2 | Burried under shrinktubing |
| LED1 | 3mm LED |
| MOV1 | VDR, 10D471K |
| Relay | MPE-105-A, 16A, 250VAC, 5V DC coil |
| S1 | microbuttonswitch |
| ?? | Ikea Trådfri ZLL module. Contains all the logic handling. |
| Identifier | Value bottom layer components |
| C3 | [Not populated] This component was called also C7 but that conflicted with the C7 on layer top. |
| C4 | 1.1 uF |
| C6 | [Not populated] |
| C8 | 1.1 nF |
| C9 | 100 nF |
| C10 | 10 uF |
| C11 | [Not populated] |
| C12 | 100 nF |
| D4 | SMD markings: F7 |
| D5 | SMD markings: S1 |
| NTC | NO LETTERS, RES 107K |
| Q1 | SMD markings: 1AM |
| R1 | 2.2M (SMD markings: 225) |
| R2 | 2.2M (SMD markings: 225) |
| R3 | 30K (SMD markings: 303) |
| R4 | 8k2 (SMD markings: 822) |
| R6 | 5K6 (SMD markings: 5601) |
| R7 | 10 Ohm (SMD markings: 100) |
| R8 | 0 Ohm (SMD markings: 0) |
| R9 | 100 Ohm (SMD markings: 101) |
| R10 | 1K (SMD markings: 102) |
| R11 | 1K (SMD markings: 102) |
| R12 | 43K (SMD markings: 433) |
| R16 | 0 Ohm (SMD markings: 0) |
| R17 | 10K (SMD markings: 01C) |
| R18 | 2 Ohm (SMD markings: 2R0) |
| R19 | 1 Ohm (SMD markings: 1R0) |
| RL1 | 3K3 (SMD markings: 332) |
| U1 | SMD markings: ASE7CA |
| U3 | SMD markings: 6209A 1643/33 |
Just to mess with your head, I did not rotate this one 😀
To give some insights on the process have a look at this:
A lot more to come in the next days.
how many more days will you keep us waiting? 🙂
I ordered a LCR meter from China, and it still did not arrive. I planned to measure the components and solder everything back on to measure voltages on the device.
In the mean time some other project came which grabbed my attention.
@Oliver, What more would you like to find out about this device?
One silkscreen identifier is wrong in the table: DB1 is not the relay (which is just labeled “Relay”), but it is the 4 pin component (rectifier? or some off-line voltage converter?)
Thanks Stefan, I have fixed the error in the page. I hope the LCR is arriving soon so I can complete the rest of the teardown.
Wow! I can’t figger it out. Hows that power supply working?! Where’s the WiFi!
The power supply can be found here: L1, C1, MOV1, F1, RL1 the comes the bridge rectifier DB1 companied by C1 and C2 for stabilization and then comes U1 for regulating it to a specific voltage.
This type of power supply is inherently unsafe to touch on the low voltage side because it still can be at a potential level of 110 to 240 volts!
The “wifi” is done with a generic Zigbee module. (http://diystuff.nl/tradfri/tradfri-zigbee-light-link-module/) So that is not wifi but Zigbee. Normal Ikea Zigbee modules have ZLL (Zigbee Light Link) but bcos it is not a light, it can be another type of Zigbee protocol.
F1 is an overvoltage protection (zenerdiode). Thanks for the work, I will use youre information to control 24VAC actuators for a garden sprinkler system.
If i want to use DC input, what DC voltage range it take and where should I connect that to bypass the step down power supply for controller?
The relay seems to bug out fast. Returned two allready in 3 months not so extensive use
Hi, I am also interested in making a relay from this, but would need to operate with DC voltage as supply voltage. Is there any possibility?
I am recently digging into this and yes, it does bug out fast but it is not the relay but the 10V 680uf cap that seems to be the culprit. That cap is the one powering the relay
U1 is likely to be a power mosfet
It is a challenge just to get to the board and even if you can replace the 10V 680uf cap, you wont be able to put back humpty dumpty back together again easily. IKEA is well known for gluing all these things so tightly and integrated – not easy to put it back in its original form again
Hi, can you tell us how to open the device without damaging it? I want to remove status LED