It was time to open the guts of yet another device. At first I did not find a way in, but finally I found a way to get in. I first removed the sticker on the inside of the plug. Under it there was a brass plug which I milled away with a Dremel. I have the F-type which is suitable for the Dutch power outlets. In Belgium and France they have the E-type which has an extra pin for providing the connection to earth.
Some preliminary photos (especially for Thomas). This is one of the boards which is inside. I still need some time to do the tracing of the tracks to reverse engineer the schematic. There is also a second PCB in there which does the controlling and communicating part. A lot more to come . ..
Some specs:
- ZWave, ZWave+/ZWave plus
- Max load 2500 Watt resistive load (continuous) to 3000 Watt (peak)
- Consumes up to 1.6 Watt
- Z-Wave device type: On/Off Power Switch (no dimming)
- Z-Wave role type: Always On Slave
- RGB LED ring
- IP20
- Extremely compact build
- CEE 7/16 – max load 2.5 A
- CEE 7/17 – max load 11A
- Type: FGWPE/F-102 ZW5
- Shuko type F or French type E
- Protection against short cirquit
- Built in thermal sensor
- Built in network range tester
- Z-Wave hardware platform: ZM5202
- Z-Wave frequency: CEPT (Europe) 868.4 MHz, 869.85 MHz
Switching is done with a classic relay, so dimming a device is not possible. A bit disappointing for that price ;-(
To bad, that you not made a Video or some Photos….
Did you really think I did not make photo’s? Of course they are there but I did not have the time to process them yet. I added the photo’s of the first PCB and the rest will follow soon. I first need to desolder the second PCB and preserve the components. The idea is that I will reassemble the whole component again and do some more testing on it. Knowing the schematic makes it easier to find out how the firmware does it’s magic.
How to find out the value of the capacitor C10?
This condenser exploded.
I have one with a broken relais, it doesn’t switch anymore. Can you give me a hint how to open it?
Hi André, I opened it by drilling out the metal pins which plug into the socket from which the plug receives the 230V. I have no idea how to later put it together. Maybe with screws?
More experience someone for repairing the Fibaro wall plug ? Overhere also a non working relais
Hi Arnoud, you are the second person having issues with your relais. The risk in repairing this plug is, you need to open it and it involves drilling. Everything will be covered with copper dust and that is difficult to completely remove. Then comes the issue to put the puzzle back together in a way that it is electrically and mechanically safe . .. When you coincidentally are living near Eindhoven, we could have a look to see if we can open it properly. You can always drop the device and I can have a look, no guarantees there 😉
Di you open other Fibaro products, too? I have a lot of Switch2 and want to trigger one of the S1/2 with a HC-SR501 (3V). Searching for easy way to build up (Because BuschJäger PIR need allways a for me unused Relais for 60Bugs 🙁 )
Hey there.
Whats your plans by open it.?
I’m thinking of opening one, to build it in to a Moccamaster because I have one already and it seems reliable, has power monitoring, works on various platforms and it has the RGB light.
Then I’d put a RGB lightstrip in both sides.