My Co-worker Bas has made me interested in the Tradfri lighting system from Ikea. He has posted already on his Github page.

Now it is my time to do some reverse engineering.
First I stated with the LED154G2, 980 lm, 12 Watt, 82lm/watt, with a E27 fitting. This device has 4 major parts:

  • Dome which spreads the light evenly,
  • LED PCB,
  • Power PCB with wireless module,
  • Casing acting as a heatsink.
  • E27 connector, the big one.

LED PCB



It contains 2 strains of leds. One which contains the 2200 Kelvin (Warm glow) LEDs and the other holds the 4000 Kelvin (Cool white) LEDs. When switching on both, you get 2700 Kelvin (Warm white). I have read of a hack which makes it possible to choose any color in between 2200 and 2700, but did not actually find it yet.
Every LED strand contains 7 sets of leds in series. Each set comprises of 2 LEDs in parallel. The LED PCB is mounted with heat conducting thermal paste to the heatsink.

Ads by Google



Power PCB



This is the complete module which is completely filled with some grey putty. When sticking a screwdriver in it it is quite easy to rip off parts of it. It does not stick and kind of crumbles.

Now the question is, why do I want to hack the LED lights. I want to fit it to an existing light which I already have. I has a 150 Watt halogen light and I want to LEDify it. I want to use the double amount of leds. Do I put 2 powersupply (and communication modules) in the lamp, or do I use the combined LEDs from 2 Ikea lights and mount them on one Power and communication module. The voltage would need to double. Are the electronics capable of doing that . ..

Ads by Google



Some data on powerconsumption:
Model: LED1650R5, 220-240V, 50/60Hz, GU10, 400lm, 5.3W, 40mA, 75lm/W, 2700K, 36°.
Measured with a Voltcraft 3000.
100%: 6.0 W, 7.5 VA, 0.80 Cos φ
50%: 1.6 W, 2.7 VA, 0.62 Cos φ
10%: 0.7 W, 1.7 VA, 0.40 Cos φ
Off: 0.0 W, 0.0 VA, 1.00 Cos φ
In the off position, there is probably some consumption, but the Voltcraft 3000 could not measure that.
Measurements are done by Bas.

Model: LED1537R6, 220-240V, 50/60Hz, GU10, 400lm, 6W, 39mA, 67lm/W, 2200K/2700K/4000K, 36°.
TBD

Model: LED1623G12, 220-240V, 50/60Hz, E27, 1000lm, 13W, ??mA, ???m/W, 2700K, ??°.
TBD

Model: LED1545G12, 220-240V, 50/60Hz, E27, 980lm, 12W, ??mA, ???m/W, 2200K/2700K/4000K, ??°.
TBD

Disclaimer


This page and its content is not affiliated with IKEA of Sweden AB.

The purpose of this project is to learn and improve using reverse engineering techniques. Use this information on your own risk.

4 thoughts on “Tradfri Hacking to LEDify an existing halogen floor lamp.

  • 2018/07/13 at 13:38
    Permalink

    Did you find out more about this pcb?, since this ICC-1 (i guess), have the software for cw/ww light, I have been thinking about taking one apart, and connect another psu, to drive an ledstrip with cw/ww color. (Would be nice though, if Ikea sold the PSU’s from the Floalt panels loose 🙂 )
    Btw, how are these controlling the light?, adjusting current?, or pwm based?

    Reply
    • 2018/07/13 at 13:44
      Permalink

      Not yet, it is work in progress, but I have too many projects I am working on concurrent.

      The controlling is done based on 600 Hz PWM as far as I know. Make sure that the driving part of the electronics is capable of driving enough current for the leds you have. Apart from the PWM I do not know if there is a current drive there to make sure the LEDs get a proper amount of current.

      Reply
      • 2018/07/14 at 16:53
        Permalink

        i took apart an LED1537R6, GU10 bulb with cw/ww, took out the ICC-1 board, and soldered some wires to it: https://www.instagram.com/p/BlOCOHxgdwE/
        I found that the green wire (PB13) is the warm white, and yellow wire(PB12) is the cold white, and its a pwm signal of about 600hz as you said.
        So now I only need to create some mosfet arrangement to control an ledstrip with this pwm signal.

      • 2018/07/16 at 18:59
        Permalink

        Yea, I connected it to an “cheap” ledstrip I bought locally here, just removed the connection from original mcu on that board, and fed the signal from the ICC board into the gate on the mosfets on the controller that came with the ledstrip, works flawlessly 🙂

Leave a Reply to neslekkim Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.